Embroidered Fabric for an Empress's Gunfu (Court Surcoat)

Description

This fabric may have been commissioned for the Empress Dowager Cixi (1835–1908) late in her life. Symbols of Chinese imperial authority appear in the roundels in the center of the uncut cloth. These symbols, including the sun, moon, constellations, and rocks, appear on the coat’s shoulders, chest, and back, while the five-toed imperial dragon and standing waters are visible on the hem and cuffs.

Provenance

Hisazo Nagatani, Chicago, by Aug. 15, 1946 [incoming receipt R8747, Aug. 15, 1946; copy in curatorial object file]; sold to the Art Institute of Chicago, 1946.

Embroidered Fabric for an Empress's Gunfu (Court Surcoat)

Manchu

Qing dynasty (1644–1911), 1898–1908

Accession Number

55857

Medium

Silk, warp-float faced 7:1 satin weave; embroidered with silk and gilt- and silvered-metal-strip-wrapped silk in satin and stem stitches; laid work and couching

Dimensions

303.5 × 199 cm (119 1/2 × 78 1/4 in.)

Classification

costume

Museum

The Art Institute of Chicago

Chicago, United States

Credit Line

Oriental Department Sundry Trust Fund